How I Travel Cheaply

You too can travel cheaply, cheaper than you thought you could. The secrets are thinking locally and living like the locals. Not only will you experience a cultural shift, you will also save money. Based on the response I got to last week’s post https://wordpress.com/post/travelsketches.info/3640, let me share with you my adventures of traveling more cheaply.

I left the United States at the end of September, 2021. I wanted to make a change in my life and had grown dissatisfied with the politics and cost of living in the US. I took two tours to look for a new location. I traveled Panamá from east to west and later the colonial mountain towns of Mexico. Based on those two tours, I chose to migrate to Boquete, Panama.

Boquete, Panamá

Boquete is a town in the mountains, not to far from the Costa Rica border. Its population is made up of approximately 20% expats. Housing was very tight, so I rented a yurt further up in the mountains. This has proven to be my most expensive rent to date: $500/month. Living in a yurt was a wonderful experience and one I shall never forget https://wordpress.com/post/travelsketches.info/261.

I did incur transportation costs living in the mountains. I had to rely on small, local buses two or three times a week to take me grocery shopping in Boquete https://wordpress.com/post/travelsketches.info/323. With a senior discount, this cost me around 55¢ a trip. I took bigger busses to the next large town for $2.00. I think I went only twice: once to shop and once for a hospital procedure. Otherwise, as I’ve always done, I walk everywhere else.

Because the property was put on the market for sale, I moved down into the town and rented a small studio for $450 including utilities, Wi-Fi, trash collection, and washer and dryer. I shopped locally to keep food costs down. This means I avoided foods imported from outside the country and purchased products made in Panamá which cost less. I shopped the local farmers’ markets for the best buys. Other than some toiletries, I think I purchased only a T-shirt and floppy hat to keep the sun off me.

I remained in Boquete 9-1/2 months, long enough to obtain a permanent visa. This came with discounts, but the only one I used was 25% off my next airfare. I flew on to Ecuador, as it had the next shortest time period to obtain a permanent visa. Unfortunately, I didn’t last long enough to obtain that visa, in part because the rules changed, making it more difficult to secure it.

Cuenca, Ecuador

I spent 13 months in Cuenca, Ecuador, another expat community. Cuenca was a great experience. It was the largest city I had lived in for some time. I secured a 2-bedroom apartment for $450, a rental figure that would stay with me to date.

This price included the same utilities and enhancements as above. Cuenca has about a dozen large mercados (indoor famers’ markets) and these are even cheaper than those in Panamá. There was also a series of American-style grocery stores, so most anything I wanted was available. However, I again chose the less expensive local products.

Since Cuenca is a larger town, I was able to shop in thrift stores. I bought a couple of shirts ($1.00 each) and a new pair of jeans (a couple of dollars). I never took the local busses or tram. I did take taxis a couple of times arriving and leaving the city and for some longer distances within the city (never more than a $3.00 fare). Having gotten the temporary visa did allow me discounts. Sometimes, restaurants automatically gave a discount to we older people without our asking. The only significant discount was 50% off all airfares.

House-sitting in Germany

I took that discount and flew to Germany to begin house-sitting. Despite this discount, crossing the pond has been my biggest expense to date. My expenses in Germany were negligible, as I had a three-month sit with no major expenses. House-sitting allows for free rent in exchange for taking care of a house and pet. My German hosts took their pet with them, so I had few requirements beyond maintaining their home.

House-sitting in England

From Germany, I flew to England with a $100 flight. I arrived at London’s Heathrow Airport and did what few people would likely do. I chose to sit there for 11 hours in order to take a night bus to Manchester, my next house sit. That way I didn’t have to deal with the London Underground (subway system) and I wouldn’t need a hotel for the night. The cost savings was worth it. I would take night travel again if I had the opportunity.

After house-sitting for a week, I had time off before I had another sit lined up. Remaining in Manchester for two nights, I experimented with my first stay in a hostel. It turned out to be a fine, cost-saving venture. I then took a train to the Cotswolds, a picturesque series of small, sandstone villages set among rolling hills. I was to pick up a bus to my lodging, but no bus was available. I ended up having to take a £60 taxi ride. European transportation may be plentiful but not always as scheduled.

I managed to get a ride back to the train to venture onto Oxford, my favorite city in England. I stayed in less-expensive housing for a couple of days while trapsing around and bumping into scenes from Inspector Morse and Lewis TV mystery series. I visited only the free-entry museums, such as the Bodleian Library and the Ashmolean Museum. There are many free opportunities in Oxford and elsewhere in England. Take advantage of these.

Radcliffe Camera, part of Bodleian Library

Next, I began a long series of house sits, traveling by train to each of them. The homeowner of the first of these introduced me to Trainline, the British rail discount app for older people. This gave me a discount of 1/3 off all my future train travels. Everything in the UK is expensive, so this was a great savings for me.

I left England after 3-1/2 months as the exchange rate between the dollar and the pound was not favorable for me. I was losing 30¢ on every dollar I spent. I would advise checking out the exchange rates for any country you might want to visit before finalizing your plans.

Ways to Travel Cheaply

I hope I might have provided you with some examples of how you can travel and do so more cheaply. Look for cheap flights and train or bus discounts; know your geography and travel short distances when you can; shop and live locally. Other considerations might be to avoid costly tours and entrance fees; use debit cards with no fees at ATMs; select reasonable phone plans. These, and any other discounts you may find, can make your travels a reality. You might like to take a look at this document: https://www.geekyexplorer.com/how-to-travel-without-money/.

Bon voyage.

Fact: You do not need to be rich to travel
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Two Honors in One Week

Two strikes and you’re out. For me, two strikes and I’m in. It was my pleasure to be rewarded twice last week. Let me explain.

Amelia and JP

For a travel blog, this might be a little off topic, but I’d like to share this with you. My first honor was to have been published for the second time in the newsletter of JP and Amelia: https://AmeliaandJP.com/saranda-albania-even-better-than-expected/. This is an independent article about Sarandë not found in my blog.

Some Sarandë Steps

Many of you who follow this blog undoubtedly know about JP and Amelia. For others, this couple have made a name for themselves on the Internet. In addition to their website, https://AmeliaandJP.com, they offer many YouTube videos about their travels. They promote the unconventional life, offer a live-abroad program, and a free live abroad toolkit.

I first met JP and Amelia when we were living in Cuenca, Ecuador. I had just arrived from Panamá and was sitting in my neighborhood park when they walked by. As I already knew them from the Internet, I unabashedly burst upon them and introduced myself. The rest is history. They have asked me to write for them again. I am honored.

Warren Julie Travel

The very next day, Warren and Julie of https://warrenjulietravel.com posted on YouTube their interview of me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGqbh9nS94E. This has gone viral by my standards. It has produced 175,000 views to the video as of yesterday (1 April) and 734 visitors and 2,486 views to my blog. I also gained about 25 new followers. The video brought the second highest views that Julie and Warren have produced over about three years. I would sincerely like to thank all of you who watched the video and responded with comments, and to the many who looked up my blog, read, and even subscribed. I guess that’s really my third honor.

I would like to apologize to all my new readers who came to me because of this video. You’ve already seen it. I am sharing it here for my continuing followers who may not have seen it. Oh, to see myself as others see me. I must admit, I am a bit embarrassed by the video. It shows the results of my house-sitting for the last six-and-a-half months depending mostly on prepared meals. I found it very hard to cook in someone else’s kitchen and to not have my own supplies. Moving around every week or two made it hard to prepare healthy meals. If nothing else, this video has gotten me back to dieting and exercising.

I had made email contact with Warren a couple of years earlier. I was amazed to see him sitting in Sarandë’s expat bar one day. He and Julie have been traveling around the world with their two dogs since 2020. They have created a multitude of YouTube videos, well worth watching. They have asked me to provide updates to my own travels.

Two Changes to my Posts

The Balkans – Unsplash.com

I would like to point out that I am making two changes to my posts. Having lived here for nine weeks now, I have learned that most people use the official spelling for this city: Sarandë. I will try to do that from this point on. Also, I have learned that everyone here refers to the sea we border as the Ionian Sea, another change I must make. The Adriatic Sea evidently hugs the coastlines of Montenegro and the other Balkan countries to the north. Learning the correct lingo is important when traveling.

Fact: Balkans is a Turkish word for mountains
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Ecuador’s Recent Earthquake

Ecuador’s recent earthquake struck last Saturday about 12:15 pm. It measured 6.7 on the Richter Scale affecting both Ecuador and Peru. The latest report, as of this writing, is that 15 people were killed (14 in Ecuador and 1 in Peru), 126 injured, and significant buildings destroyed or damaged. At least 20 schools and 30 health centers showed damage. For the absolute latest information, see SkyNews.com (World).

Let me first apologize for duplicate material I have posted on Internet sites. I want to assure you that I am fine. This is my latest report.

Cuenca – News.Sky.com

At about 12:15 pm Saturday, I was preparing some lunch when it happened. So I hung onto my kitchen counter for what seemed like two minutes while we rocked. I had no damage, only the loss of some electricity for a few hours. Here in Cuenca, a building toppled onto a car, killing the occupant. Another person was killed in an outlying area.

I’m an old hand with earthquakes. I survived the 1969 7.1 quake in San Francisco. That one left me and the city in quarantine for 2-3 weeks. I only had a crack in a wall. Later, when I moved north, I lived on a mountain with geysers below me. This was a major geothermal site. These geysers often let off some steam which shook the mountain. We were glad for the little shakes, as we felt that delayed any buildup for a large quake.

Cuenca – News.Sky.com

The only new experience I had with this latest quake came from a change in the  atmospheric pressure. It suddenly gave me a mild headache and partially plugged ears. I have read that there have been two aftershocks; I may have felt a mild one that night.  I trust we are now in the clear.

I don’t know what it will take to knock this old guy off his feet, but it seems it’s going to take more than an earthquake!

Fact: In 2016, Ecuador suffered a 7.8 earthquake with at least 676 people killed and 16,600 people injured
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The Cost of Food Shopping in Cuenca

You will save money when you grocery shop in Ecuador. Prices for local products are often substantially below those in North America. This is a result of the lower cost of living in Ecuador. The average monthly salary in Cuenca is $753.00 a month, with many earning $450.00 a month. Some items are subsidized by the government; others are  priced lower in order to accommodate the low average salary.

Alicia Erickson has researched food costs in six major Cuenca stores  in April 2022 (https://yapatree.com/cuenca-grocery-shopping-options-compare-lower-cost-of-living/). Her figures below are based on one pound, except where noted.

Proteins                               

Chicken     $1.25
Beef             $2.80
Pork            $2.00
Fish             $1.25
Shrimp      $3.00

Produce   

Onions        $0.40
Tomatoes  $0.40
Apples         $0.73
Potatoes     $0.30
Pineapple  $1.00 (1)

Staples                                             

Sugar          $0.45
Spaghetti $1.00
Flour           $0.47
Rice             $0.50
Beans         $0.80
Quinoa       $1.50

Miscellaneous

Box Wine    $5.00
Eggs (30)   $3.50
Milk (1L)    $0.70
W. Bread    $1.00 (loaf)
Honey         $1.00 (small jar)

Comparisons with the Mercados

Local Tiendas                28% higher
SuperMaxi                      61% higher
Other large stores       29%-55% higher

Last week at my Mercado, I bought a head of lettuce and a cauliflower, 3 green peppers, 3 white onions, 2 cucumbers, 1 humongous zucchini, 2 carrots for a total of $3.50!

Clearly, shopping in the mercados is the most cost-effective way to obtain groceries. Hence, their popularity. 

Fact: Unrefrigerated milk is sold in cartons on the shelf
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Ascending on High

Well, it seems that way. From where I’m living in Cuenca, Ecuador, the El Centro (old historic district) is straight up. Come, walk with me as  we head up to El Centro.

I live in a part of Cuenca called El Vergel, a popular area with expats and Ecuadorians. It is composed of commercial and residential buildings. Let’s  start by walking a few blocks of the business district, walking past the ubiquitous MacDonald’s and crossing a 4-lane street. We then arrive at the relatively large Parque de la Madre. This park is busy day and night with individuals, families, and groups. We are likely to see a bunch of young kids playing games or running off their energy. There’s probably an adult exercise group of some sort. We pass by some venders, cross a street to the Tomebamba River. Cuenca has four fast-flowing rivers with walkways alongside.

We’ll cross a bridge which I call the Women’s Bridge. Everything in Cuenca has a name, but very few structures or streets have these names posted. This bridge has been painted on each side with the yearly number of reported abuses against women. It’s a sobering observation.

Now our ascent starts. We will climb 88 steps to reach the edge of El Centro. I do this several times a week (good exercise for the heart) to reach my part-time job at Carolina Bookstore, the only English-language used bookstore in Cuenca (the store also has growing Spanish language sections). At the top of this ascent, we land upon Calle Larga (Long Street) which runs along one edge of El Centro.

88 Steps to El Centro

Now, if you would prefer a shorter climb, you can walk up river to the next set of steps, a mere 84 steps 🙂 which rise alongside the Selina Hotel. Further upstream is another set of actual stairs (uncounted for now)  coming from Cuenca University (there are 3 universities in Cuenca) paralleling a curving road.

84 Steps Along Hotel Selina

Reaching the top, we find the streets of the old town jutting out in a grid pattern. Easy to circumnavigate? Yes, if you don’t care to know which direction you’re going. This grid, sitting askew to much of the rest of the city, is likely to have been structured by the river below. Despite the traveling I’ve done, I am totally confused with directions here. I’ve been lost numerous times and have had to ask how to get where I want to go. I made the mistake of thinking my base street ran in one direction when, in fact, it ran the other direction. I continue to have problems rotating my directions by 45º.

Having reached “up top,” we’ll explore El Centro next week. Come back and walk with me through this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Fact: Cuenca is described as the most beautiful city in all of South America
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The Value of Friends

I have found that making friends is one of the most important requirements when moving to a new community. I have been blessed to have made new friends who seem to have been just waiting to help me. My introduction to Cuenca would have been so much harder without their help.

I am subletting an apartment from a man who is in France for July and August. He has generously taken the time to frequently email or WhatsApp me with all kinds of information about the city. Additionally, he told me to look up a friend of his who has gone out of his way to show me around and given me helpful advice. We were sitting in the small park near my apartment when who comes walking by but Amelia and JP. I know there are those of you who have followed them on the Internet (website and/or YouTube). I started attending a church and I have been taken out to lunch and encountered a couple in a different restaurant. They started teaching me how to use a taxi app to get around. Where would I be without friends?

Walk Along the Tomebamba River

Generally, I am pretty good with directions. However, I made the mistake of thinking a major street through my neighborhood ran east and west when I later learned that it ran north and south. I have been working hard to reorient myself ever since. If only the streets ran in a predictable pattern, but they don’t. Add to that that there are few street signs, and I can become totally lost.

Fortunately, in El Centro, many of the buildings are numbered and there is a system to this. Numbers begin with 1 or 2 digits followed by a hyphen and then the actual building address. Those digits indicate the block, like 3-150. This is very helpful when you know the address of a store on a long street, for instance. Unfortunately, if you only know the name of the store, you don’t know in what block it is located. Outside of El Centro, house numbers and street names are almost nonexistent.

Even taxi drivers have some difficulty finding their way to a specific location. These drivers can drive around circles, intentionally or not, to keep the meter advancing. I’ve learned to hand the driver a note with an address to try to prevent this. However, if my destination is not marked, it’s nothing but a guessing game. I’ve had a driver tell me he couldn’t take me where I wanted to go because he had no idea where it was. Another drove around and around not finding the location and finally told me to just get out of his cab, in the rain no less!

Cuenca’s Tranvia

I haven’t begun to tackle the bus and train (think above-ground subway) systems yet. So, I walk when I can. Walking in Cuenca is really the best way to encounter this city and its many charms. I will write about this in my next post.

Fact: The riverside trails extend 13 kilometers through Cuenca (8 miles)
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Flying High

Up, Up and Away in My Beautiful Balloon – er, plane. I’m off to the world’s third highest capitol city – Quito, Ecuador – at 9,350 feet. From there, I drop down to Cuenca, Ecuador at 8,400 feet. The big news is I bought a one-way ticket. Yes, I have left Panamá to spend the next two years in Ecuador.

Panamá gave me the joy of traveling, of experiencing a new culture, and a permanent visa with e-cedula (permanent residence card). I will miss all the wonderful friends I made in Boquete. However, I can see them when I return every two years to keep my permanent visa active.

Cuenca’s Cathedral – istockphoto.com

Why two years in Ecuador? Besides the acquisition of a permanent visa, I want to further exercise my goal to travel slowly. Slow is a concept originating with food – the desire for better food cooked well. It has extended to all facets of life, advocating slowing down and experiencing a simpler life. This idea began with Carlo Petrini in Rome when he protested the opening of a new McDonald’s fast food restaurant. The year was 1986. From that protest, the slow movement grew fast.

Central Park – pinterest.com

In the book, In Praise of Slow, Carl Honoré describes the movement as a philosophy which

is a cultural revolution against the notion that faster is always better. The Slow philosophy is not about doing everything at a snail’s pace. It’s about seeking to do everything at the right speed. Savoring the hours and minutes rather than just counting them. Doing everything as well as possible, instead of as fast as possible. It’s about quality over quantity in everything from work to food to parenting.

Tomebamba River Walk – Dreamstime.com

Slow travel is not about traveling from one place to another but immersing into an understanding of a place. How long should this take? There is no answer to the question. Some say a week, others say a month or more. I say six months or more. The real joy of traveling is to have no agenda but to stop and smell the roses. This is my aim for Ecuador. I hope you’ll come along for my slow experiences.

istockphoto.com

I will begin my stay in Cuenca, the most European city in South America. It has also been called the “Athens of Ecuador,” implying Cuenca is famous for its architecture – churches, cathedrals, cloisters, and homes – and its literary and artistic novelists, poets, and writers. I’m excited to find out for myself why these attributes have been assigned to Cuenca, and you can feel certain I will be sharing these with you.

Fact: Lhasa, Tibet is the highest capital city in the world at 11,995’
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